Ambae is an island in Penama province, part of northern Vanuatu. It is a ten minute flight from Pentecost island (home to the spectacular 'naghol' land-diving ceremony), but tends to receive very few visitors.

If you want to experience the true Vanuatu, you don't need to go to a custom village or take a tour. Just take a plane or ship to Ambae, book no accommodation and make no plans. Within minutes of arriving, you'll understand the hospitality of the ni-Vanuatu people.

Trek up to the crater lakes of Manaro (a semi-dormant volcano that became immensely active in 2005 and 2006), go diving for fish with the locals, learn how to cook and eat island-style, or just while away your time under a shady tree with whoever happens to be there already.

Port Vila's lovely, but it's not really Vanuatu.